Post #239337 by Paipo on Fri, Jun 23, 2006 5:11 PM

Kia Ora guys, it's great to get up and see so many replies!

I was planning to post progress pics as I went - I figured the carvers here probably hadn't seen much in the way of stone techniques before. The problem was, once I discarded my first piece and got going with this one, I didn't want to stop! I started it after lunch and kept working until early evening. Once I'm in "the zone" I like to keep going without a break until something is finished.

Seeing the interest is there, I've got some photos of the tools I used so I'll try and explain the process, by pointing out which tools I used for the various techniques.

First up, here's my baby: Nakanishi dental micromotor system. You can't see the foot control under the bench in this shot. High torque, smooth running from 1-50,000 rpm. I previously used a heavy duty dremel (still do on ocasion), but the difference between the two is akin to that between a Lada and a Ferrari.

Here are the diamond burrs I used on the carving - all 2.34mm shank Hongia brand.

1. Fine needle, 1mm diameter
   2,3. Flat discs with diamonds on both sides and edges - 5mm & 2mm
   4,5. 12mm & 6 mm inverted cones. It's hard to tell from the pic, but these are concave on the end. This allows a flowing curved cut where the back of the cut is lightly concave and the front is convex, similar to what you get from a U shaped chisel. More on these in a minute.
   6,7. Flat ended cylindrical burrs, both about 3mm, one a little shorter and tapered slightly.
2. Core drill (hole saw), 5mm dia.

OK, on to the carving...after drawing on my design, I defined the face using #4 (yellow lines) and #5 (green lines). These burrs produce a deep bold cut, but you have to be very confident with your action or they will ruin a piece in a second. Being shown how to use these by a Maori master carver who specialised in tiki was a revelation. No other tool can do so much in so little time when used correctly. I follow these lines repeatedly with #6 or 7 to smooth out tool marks and improve the flow.
Yeah, I know he looks like the Ultimate Warrior!

Now for some detailing using the cutting discs - #2 (red) & #3 (blue). again, I follow the horizontal cuts with # 6 or 7 to bevel off the bottom edges to get that "Wood carved" look.

Time to define the mouth by dropping down a couple of spots using the core drill (#8) followed with the flat end of #6 (which I also used for the nostrils).

OK, we're almost there - I just need to get some teeth happening. I cut a line with disc #2 (red) and push a hole in each end by drilling down with the flat end of the tiny disc #3 (orange spots). Once I have the depth right, I move this burr gently around to undercut the hole for a bit more shadow in the corners of the mouth. Finally, the teeth are made with the needle #1 (pale green). I push the sharp end in a little under the lip, again to enhance the feeling of depth with some bold shadow. A few notches on the chin with the same tool, and it's pretty much done.

The rest of the process involves hours of going over the same cuts with the same tools (or the same tool in a finer grit) but on lower speeds and less water, so the burrs are sanding rather than cutting. Finally, A quick brush with some beeswax, some holes in the back followed by a cord and toggle and it'll be ready to go!