Post #226926 by Benzart on Sun, Apr 16, 2006 7:18 AM

Keigs, Great question.
A "Hardnose bar will, or Should last as long as a sproketed bar as long as you pay attention to a few things. Plunge cuts are the worst thing for any bar as it puts direct pressure on the tip. Keep the plunge cuts to a minimum or do them slowly. Gutting with the Top of the bar also puts extra pressure on the tip of the bar, so again keep to a minimum. Physically inspect the bar often to make sure the oiler holes are clear and the crud is removed from the bottom or the chain track. Also make sure the tip or other surface areas where the chain rests on the bar are kept filed flat. As you carve, the chain wears these surfaces and they may get rounded, keep them filed flat. If you don't, you will see the tip begin to separate, or start to be peeled back like a banana,so just look for all these things on a regular inspection. The carving bars are expensive and need to be properly cared for to get the longest life from them.

What is the difference in 3/8 and 1/4 pitch chain?? Another Very good question because many peeps do not know! It is the sama as ANY saw. Say if you use an old fasioned Hand saw, say a Cross-cut saw , with large teeth and an aggressive set to it. That saw is perfect for Cross-cuts, cutting Fast across the grain, but it leaves a rough edge, Not smoothe at all. Now, Pick up a Finer tooth saw that has smaller teeth and More teeth per inch and make the Same cut. You have to work a little harder to cut the same board, but it finishes with barely Any chips or rough edges. It is a very smoothe cut.
That is the same with the 1/4 pitch chain: Smaller teeth so you get a Much Smoother finish and you can actually carve More detail without risking large chunks tearing out. So if you want a very smoothe carving experience, go for the 1/4 pitch chainand then you can go down to the dime sized tip bar where you can really do some fine detail..
Keigs, I hope this helps and as always, just Ask and I'll be there!